Bras Buying Guide

The bra is an essential, but thankless garment. When you're wearing the wrong one, you look terrible in your clothes. But who wants to take the time, exert the effort, and spend the cash on a piece of clothing no one will see? Perhaps that's why up to 80% of women are walking the streets in the wrong size. And it shows; a binding back band that shows through shirts, wiggling and jiggling boobs that creep toward your navel, overstuffed cups, shoulder digging straps, and again that bloody back band, riding up! The true reward for wearing a high quality, well-fitted, dare I say a little expensive bra is not more attention for your boobs, as you might think, but rather less. For god's sake, get the right bra and put the focus back where it belongs--you, the whole package.

The Naked Truth

Before the bras can be discussed, let us start in on the boobs. What are their special needs? Perhaps you're on the small side, and you'd like a boost. Or maybe you're on the big side, and you're looking to downplay the fact. Maybe one breast is a little larger than the other--maybe you've even had a mastectomy--or you've breastfed and you're desperately seeking a lift. The right bra can help with all of these situations. But first, and in any case, you've got to get your size right.

Grab a measuring tape and measure your rib cage just under your breasts, where your usual bra band would fit. Write that number down. Now measure again over your breasts, at their fullest point. Write that number down too. What's the difference between the two figures? Once you know that, you'll have your cup size: and A is a difference between 1/2" to 1" (and a AA is anything less than that), a B is 1"-2 1/2", a C is 2 1/2" to 3 1/2", and a D is 3 1/2 to 4 1/2". So for example, if you measured 34 inches around your rib cage and then 36 inches over your bust, you've got a difference of 2 inches. That makes you a B cup, and your band size 34 inches. You're officially equipped to start bra shopping!

 The Hunt

Now that you've got your size, you'll be perusing racks of bras looking for it. But different racks offer dramatically different styles. How do you know which ones you should be picking up? Below is a quick key to a few of the different options out there and what sort of clothes (and breasts!) they might work best with. 

Strap Styles
Conventional Straps  Classic. Women with small chests will find this one a no brainer, but the bigger busted will have to choose carefully to get enough support. How thick is the band on the bra? Most of the lifting action happens here, so be sure the fabric it's made from is not too stretchy and that it's thick enough to support you (count the back clasps to get an idea; one is very lightweight, 3 or 4 is very secure).	Strapless Bras  These work on the concept of most of the support of a bra coming from its band, but they're still quite tricky. Smaller busts may feel they don't have enough to hold it up, while bigger ones may feel they're too heavy to get any lift from the strapless bra. Whatever you do, don't buy one too small in hopes of keeping it up; just try on several styles and see what fits best. Some even come with a rubber or silicone strip along the inside to help it stick, while others have adhesive all over (see the Backless Bra). If you're still having trouble, another option is a bra with clear straps, or a Bustier.	Racer Back Bras  Though they may look odd on their own and under traditional tank tops, these cheeky little numbers hide perfectly under those sleeveless shirts with armholes that cut into the back. Look mum, no straps! They usually have front closure, as opposed to most other bra styles. You can get the same effect from Convertible bras that have an option of criss crossing the straps. But be warned; if you're heavy on top, this configuration might throw off your centre of gravity or give you rather extreme cleavage. Again, try a few styles on and see what works for you.	Convertible Bras   You probably already have one of these in your drawer, if you've worn a fancy dress recently. That's because Convertible bras can be switched about to sneak seamlessly under many exotic necklines. The average is five different ways to wear it: Strapless (you take the straps right off), criss cross (if the dress itself is criss cross or racer backed), halter, regular, and clear strapped. You'll have a lot of options, but be aware that none of them maybe be supportive enough for everyday wear, and you may instead want to choose a bra built for strapless, racer, etc. if you wear that particular style a lot.	Backless Bras   These can be tricky. Right now there's a new option on the market sold by Maidenform which boasts normal bra-age except for the back strap, but the jury's still out on the comfort factor (my guess would be that slouching=bra falling off). Standards for this form otherwise are pretty much silicon adhesive bras, like the NuBra, or bras with a back extender strap, as pictured (you can buy a special strap like this that will work with bras you already have too). But whatever you decided on for the backless look, unless the outfit is supportive or you're a very perky A cup, don't go commando. For the children.

Common Coverages
Full Coverage Bras  These are probably the most supportive option for big busts, since the band is nice and wide even between the cups (take a look at the center of the Deep Plunge bra to note the difference). Unfortunately, they won't work under low-cut clothing, so while you should stock up on them for seamless life under jumpers and T shirts, have a few other options handy for dipping necklines.	Demi Cup Bras  Perfect for square or scoop necklines, this bra features half the coverage, but also half the support of a classic, full coverage bra. Smaller chests may find these perfectly comfortable while bigger ones may discover the weight all falls all their shoulders. Be sure that the straps are digging into you and seek 2-3 clasps in back if you know you'll need more support.	Push Up Bras  The small chested girl's secret weapon. The illusion of bulk is usually created by flat sides of the bra, which push inward on the breasts and ram them into each other. There is often padding too. Depending on your top, your chest size, and the time of day, this maybe be a little cheeky or majorly skanky. Tread carefully and have fun with this style.	Deep Plunge Bras  Great for V-neck tops, the Deep Plunge bra does exactly what is says it will, and offers more options for supportive features than a Demi Cup, such as straps set more closely together. You're better off sticking to full coverage under a T shirt though, as the Deep Plunge can be less than seamless.	Bustiers  This has been a Godsend for the big busted girl with her heart set on a strapless dress. If that's you, drag yourself away from the sexy, lacy, ribbony ones and find a seamless nude model so you can dance (and, gasp, actually lift your arms) in that dress. Extra benefits include a little tummy smoothing action--but beware of going too tight in search of this effect, as you may bubble out on top and at the hips. Small busted girls, you can probably get away with wearing this as a night top; the lack of cleavage keeps the look saucy, not slutty, so have fun with it.

Specialty Bras
Training Bras  These are somewhere between a sports bra and a real bra for girls who are new to the whole boob thing. This customer will probably want thin straps for a pretty look but no underwire for comfort. Support isn't really the issue here, though some girls may want cups for the look.	Sports Bras  Running Bras  These are a little easier to shop for than traditional bras, but you'll still need to try them on and hop up and down in the dressing room. The goal is as little boob-movement as possible with the greatest ability to breathe.	Maternity Bras  Many women assume that their breasts getting larger during pregnancy just calls for a larger size of their bras. But maternity bras provide unparelled support and comfort. Buy a couple, and expect to need a new one closer to the end of your pregnancy (you may want to get a nursing bra, which has openings for feedings, at this point even if nursing your baby seems like along way off. You'll save money and a trip to the bra department).	Minimizer Bras  If you're wondering why anyone would want to minimize their chest, you've never popped through a button down shirt before. Ladies, keep it professional at work and stop gapping between buttons of your blouses; get a minimizer. You'll look streamline and slimmer all over. Added bonus: it's so supportive, you may find yourself running down stairs without crossing your arms!	Mastectomy Bras  Breast Forms  These bras feature a lining to slip a removable pad into to even you out. Perfect if you've had a breast removed or you're naturally a little uneven. Size for the larger breast, and get a pad separately to fill the smaller side out.

Wires?
Wireless Bras  Some women find underwire bras uncomfortable; for them, there are plenty of bras on the market right now, including Victoria's Secret Ipex. Though bigger chested women may find they need more support, those who feel comfortable going wire-free may make the pleasant discovery that this bra can be nearly invisible under clothes. Perfect for thin tee shirts!	Underwire Bras  This is the heavy duty stuff. Your girls are not going anywhere in an underwire. Just be sure that your bra fits correctly before you buy it and that the wire is in the right place, or you'll face some unpleasant digging.

Other Factors
Front Closure Bras  For the girl who finds back closure challenging, or wants to give her boyfriend a hand.	Water Bras  Good for a temporary boost, but stay clear of sharp objects.	Lined Bras  A low support level but comfy bra. Good for sleeping or bumming around the house. A or B cups may get away with these all weekend, but beware of show-through if it gets chilly.	Padded Bras  A little help for small chested girls who need to fill something out. Get one with removable pads if you've got a wide variety of darts in your shirts. Bonus: unsurpassed nipple coverage!

The Verdict

Do you know what bra you need? Well grab about four of them and haul ass to the dressing room, because there's still some work to be done. Put one on and look for these no-nos:

• Wrinkled cups. If this is happening, go down a cup size--you're not filling it out as intended.
• Cups that runneth over. Go up a cup.
• A back that rides up. Go smaller in the band size, and/or adjust the straps so that they're longer.
• A band that cuts into your flesh and makes bulges. Adjust the band to a looser clasp. How's that feel? If it's now too loose, try a thicker band which is less likely to cut into your skin. If you're already at the loosest clasp, go up a band size and see how it feels, for example from 34" to 36", keeping the same cup size, and survey the results.
• Straps that dig into your shoulders. Adjust them so that they're looser. How does that feel? If your boobs just dropped 2 inches and you don't feel supported, the culprit is the back band. Is tight enough? You shouldn't be able to fit more than two finger between the bra and your back; if you can, it's too loose and you should go down a size, from 36" to 34" for example. If it is tight enough but you're still not supported, try a different bra--you need a wider band to support you.
• The bra doesn't lie flat against your skin. The centre of the bra should touch your breastbone no matter how you move around. If it's gapping, chances are you need to go up a cup size, and possibly down a band size.

Did You Know?

A recent study at a London hospital performed bra fittings on women about to undergo breast reduction surgery. The result? 100% of the women were wearing the wrong bra size. If you're miserable in your bras, either because of back or shoulder pain, or constant fidgeting/adjusting during the day, do yourself a favour and get professionally fitted. You never know how comfortable you might be able to feel--it could change your whole outlook on your breasts, and maybe even your life. Happy shopping!

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